Toronto Restaurants by Stephanie Dickison

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At The Pass with Jill Barber

At The Pass is a monthly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

Currently 

Executive Pastry Chef, Paradise On Bloor.

Formerly 

I’ve worked in the Industry for over 14 years now, at every station from savoury to sweet.  Most recently, I ran the pastry department at Blackbird Baking Co.

Favourite dish to make right now

I love cooking at home in the cold weather. I worked as a sous chef in a gastropub in England years ago, and I just love doing a full roast dinner on a cold day. So cozy. 

Last cookbook purchase

I bought Alison Roman’s Nothing Fancy: Unfussy Food for Having People Over, at a wonderful dinner promoting her book which she attended. She was so charming in person, and the book is a delight of things you just want to eat with friends.

Have you read it/tried any recipes

Omg, that Labneh Dip!

Name one dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus 

Unsustainable fish.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Emerald Grassland Butter. There really are not a lot of great butters that are local in Ontario. Good quality butter elevates any dish. 

Your biggest influences

My pastry background is mostly French. I just love the technique of classic French pastries. My biggest role model in the industry is Simon Blackwell, owner of Blackbird Baking Co. In an industry that can be hard on its workers, Simon is such a kind and caring person to work for. I look up to that and always strive to foster a friendly and safe working environment for myself and those around me. 

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world 

Noma in Copenhagen.

Last thing you ate 

A banana. Ha. Like a lot of chefs, I ironically could feed myself better.  

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Eggs, Milk, Butter.

Guilty pleasure

I have so many! Doritos! Instant Ramen! Chocolate-covered Gummies! Oof, I like fancy food… those Doritos tho… 

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Famiglia Baldassarre, Donna’s, Rol San Restaurant.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars 

Paradise Grapevine, Pharmacy, Wise Bar.  

Go-to drink

I love natural wine! I still have a lot to learn, but I’m a member of The Living Vine wine club and it’s helping me try new things. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Singing. I’m so sorry guys. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Make what you want to eat. 

One hidden talent 

Definitely not singing. 

The best career advice you ever received

I can't recall who said this to me, but I know I was running around and working through my break, and a coworker said, "You have to secure your own oxygen mask first, Jill". It's so easy to forget to take care of yourself in kitchens, so I always come back to that.

The worst career advice you ever received

Be mean to your staff to get them to work harder.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Don’t lose the joy you get from food.  Without the joy, it’s just not worth it. 

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.   

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