At The Pass with Hamza Aidrus
🕒 4.5 min read
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
Currently
Butcher/Cook, Alimentari Italian Grocery
Formerly
Most recently Osteria Rialto and Joey Restaurant Group. Various hotels and catering before that.
Favourite dish to make right now
Spicy bean stew, any sort of slow-cooked stew or curry, especially during the colder months.
Last cookbook purchase
The Talisman Italian Cook Book by Ada Boni (1958). My partner Monika found it in the clearance section at a bookstore and it’s filled with absolute gold.
Have you read it/tried any recipes
I tried the Minestrone Soup and Artichoke & Eggplant Dip.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Unnecessary garnish. Chiff(onade) parsley doesn’t really add anything to the dish other than aesthetic and labour.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
Seasonal vegetables! Offcuts of meat being used creatively (huge waste prevention and delicious!). And pickles… pickled anything. Great drinking accompaniment.
Biggest influences
My mother and father —they were my first introduction to food, and I didn’t know how fortunate I was to be eating what I ate growing up.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
Street taco stands in Oaxaca, Mexico.
Last thing you ate
A leftover slice of Hawaiian pizza. This choice of pizza usually creates enemies, but I love it.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Eggs, Pecorino, Yellow Mustard.
Guilty pleasure
A cheeseburger. Specifically: A smashed burger with processed cheese, special sauce, and shredded lettuce. I’ve been cutting down though…
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Dandylion, Donna’s, Dumpling House.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
Midfield Wine Bar, Paradise Grapevine, Imperial Pub.
Go-to drink
A funky natural red, until it’s time for a Negroni, then maybe some Fernet.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Taking on too much without asking for help. This is something I’ve gotten better at, but need to continue to work on. That, and constantly misplacing my towels.
One habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Ask questions and always take the time to teach and explain if someone asks you a question. I find I pay more attention to a task if I understand what I’m doing and why.
Hidden talent
I can cut hair.
Best career advice you ever received
A chef once told me never to compare my progress with anyone else. How can you improve yourself if you’re always looking at others?
Worst career advice you ever received
You have to be feared in order to move forward in this industry.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
Love what you do. I’ve learned that if I don’t look forward to going to work, then it’s time to work somewhere else.
I’m privileged to be able to live my life doing what I love and I’m starting to see more awareness in the restaurant industry around cooks who work exhaustingly long hours for lower pay. Know your worth and work with people that value your work.
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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
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