Toronto Restaurants by Stephanie Dickison

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At The Pass with Samantha Lamanna

đź•’ 7 min read

Currently 

Sous Chef, Il Covo

Formerly 

La Pineta and Ristorante Lunasia in Tuscany, Italy. Then at Giro D’italia Ristorante in Vaughan.

Favourite dish to make right now

One thing is just too difficult to choose! But right now, breads and baked goods have been my go-to. I finally have the time to experiment and better understand different types of dough and techniques. I’m learning more about proofing, bulk fermentation, folding dough, laminating etc. Some of my favourites have been sourdough loaves, brioche buns, CROISSANTS! If not any of those, a plate of pasta with mixed seafood hits the sweet spot... It takes me back to Italy.

Last cookbook purchase

Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza by Ken Forkish

Have you read it/tried any recipes 

I am still reading through it, but my boyfriend had a pizza craving so I jumped to the overnight pizza dough with poolish… changed the method up a little bit to a two-night pizza dough, and let me tell you, it was spot on. Sooo light, with an airy crust and perfectly thin base. 

Name one dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus 

Truffle oil.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus 

Seasonal & local ingredients. We need more of this!

Biggest influences 

My parents take first place - without them and their support, I wouldn’t be who I am or where I am today. My boyfriend who is always pushing me to be better and do better. In the kitchen there’s (Anthony) Bourdain. The man was a true legend. Angie Mar from The Beatrice Inn and Gabrielle Hamilton from Prune, both New York chefs. Such bold and passionate personalities, their stories so inspiring, and their food so delicious. Finally Ryan Campbell, the chef who took me under his wing, who has truly taught me the most and allowed me to fall into a deeper love with food.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

AHH this is so hard!! There are so many. I have a list on my phone, organized by country/city that I want to dine at. Yes, I love lists. But the first places that come to mind right now are either Alinea in Chicago or Osteria Francescana in Modena.

Last thing you ate 

Chips Ahoy! cookies and glass of milk. Classic snack.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge 

Cheese, Milk, Cured meat. 

Guilty pleasure

Olives… I could eat a whole jar. Maybe two. Probably three. 

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants 

Edulis, Bar Isabel, and Antler Kitchen & Bar.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

I wish I could write three, but I don’t go to bars all that much. Here’s one though: Bar Raval. Definitely a go-to after work. 

Go-to drink 

Negroni!! Before dinner, on a summer day, with some small bites, really anytime. Oh, and two of them. Minimum.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

When I begin to work and get so focused, sometimes I forget about my surroundings. I forget to enjoy the time with my team, share a few laughs, eat, and even drink a glass of water.

One habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs 

Teamwork. The kitchen is built up of multiple people not just one person. If it isn’t on your prep list, or listed as your job, doesn’t mean you don’t have to do it. Help each other whenever possible and strive to work as a team to have a successful and positive service. 

Hidden talent 

I can walk on my hands, if we’re calling that a talent. Ha ha!

Best career advice you ever received 

“The dish pit is your base. If that’s not organized and spotless, you are setting yourself up for a messy service.” – Chef Ryan Campbell 

My mother would always tell me, and still does. “Passion is half of the job. Whatever you do, put love and passion in it. If you don’t, it’ll show in your dish.”

Worst career advice you ever received

It went something like this: “Get out of the industry while you can. You’re just a kid. You don’t know what you’re getting into. This is a man’s job.” I was just starting out, too. 

Not only did this come from a woman, but a bitter one at that. I think myself and many other female chefs have proven otherwise.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Ask questions. Read as much as you can. Don’t be afraid to put yourself out there and try new things. If you succeed, great, and if not, it just became a lesson to learn from. There is always something to learn, and next time you will succeed. Most importantly: work hard, don’t take shortcuts and get your hands dirty. If you can do the clean jobs, you can do the messy ones too. 

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At The Pass is a monthly series showcasing Toronto/GTA’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.

Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.