Toronto Restaurants by Stephanie Dickison

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At The Pass with Keanu Francisco

đź•’ 9 .5 min read

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.

Currently

Jr. Sous Chef at SARA / Chef, Owner of Kusinera, a popup I’ve dedicated to rediscovering my Filipino heritage that I neglected growing up, and paying homage to the very prominent feminine energy present throughout my life and career, and most importantly, my mom. 

Formerly

Rasa, The Food Dudes - I’ve pretty much stayed loyal to the company since I was 16 so my past experience isn’t exactly as expansive as most!

Favourite dish to make right now

I can’t say that I currently have a favourite dish, but I’ve been rediscovering my Filipino heritage and have just been recipe testing a lot of different Filipino food.

Last cookbook purchase 

Amboy: Recipes from the Filipino-American Dream by Alvin Cailan

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I’ve read the whole book front-to-back multiple times now, and this is kind of embarrassing to say but from it I’ve learned how to make on-the-stovetop steamed rice; I never actually learned how to until about two months ago. Even that whole finger trick with the rice and water was something I knew faintly about but didn’t fully understand the whole mechanics of it. Thanks Ma.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

My friends will hate me for saying this because it’s always been a meme for them, but I have truly always hated sushi burritos/sushi pizza/sushi ____. I thoroughly enjoy my sushi as sushi.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus 

I can’t say I’m excited for a specific dish or ingredient to see more often on menus. Honestly, I prefer not knowing what a dish/ingredient is and ordering it just to learn about it. If I hate it, I hate it. If I love it, I’m ordering it again. 

Biggest influences

Culinary-wise I have way too many, but the most prominent one for me would be my Mom only because she couldn’t cook well when I was young; thus, forcing me to learn how to cook and end up where I am now.  

Other than that, over the last few months and creating Kusinera I’ve been heavily influenced & inspired by Sasha Ortega, Abby Albino, Justin Bella, Julz Ochangco, Wesley Altuna, and Chuck Ortiz from Acquired Taste - for everything they’ve done for the Filipino community here in the city.

Stone Crab Alavar at Kusinera.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

In 2019 I would have said Azurmendi in Spain, but as of right now with the state of the world? There’s no restaurant in the world I wish I was at more than Rol San specifically at 1:30am after a busy Saturday shift with my SARA family downing Tsingtaos and Nestea while eating steamed black pepper short ribs, steamed rice, snow pea leaves and king oyster mushrooms, and these weird little fried custard balls they’ve got. 

Last thing you ate

A slice of Kiki’s Memories from Big Trouble Pizza, and some homemade palabok because I was too lazy to walk over to Jollibee at Yonge and Dundas. 

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

I will always have butter, garlic, and white miso.

Guilty pleasure

Yell-singing “Unwritten” by Natasha Bedingfield whenever I’m cooking. Both at work and at home.

And food or drink-related guilty pleasure: This one is pretty easy because I’ve recently gotten into a giant argument with my friends over at Big Trouble Pizza about this: I actually prefer Pepsi over Coke! 

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Big Trouble Pizza, Yasu, and BB’s Diner.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

I’m not a huge drinker so I don’t go to bars often, so my only choice would have to be Bar Raval! This will change once the pandemic is finally over.

Kinilaw at Kusinera.

Go-to drink

This is a tie between Rum & Coke vs. Gin & Tonic. But if there was an ice-cold can of Nestea right beside both of those and I had a choice? I’m taking the plunge.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Singing too much during service. Surprisingly though, I can somehow manage to sing while in the middle of the juice even on busy nights. 

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

I like to always check in on my peers/co-workers. It’s true that a team is only as strong as the weakest link, and you never know when someone’s having a bad day. Simply asking if someone needs help and being there for someone builds up team morale, trust, and by extension, overall performance. 

Hidden talent

Not so much a talent more than it is a weird quirk, but if “Back at One” by Brian McKnight is played around me, I will start spontaneously singing my heart out to the wall. This is also the case for “Let Me Love You” by Mario, except I’ll also start dancing as if I was in the music video. 

Best career advice you ever received

From someone not in the industry, this piece of advice has actually been extremely beneficial for my entire career, and it’s “Don’t be on time, be early.” My high school teacher, Mr. Fleming taught me this when I was in Grade 9. Having some extra time to gather my thoughts and get ready before the shift even starts has always allowed me to plan out exactly what I need to do, how to do it, and in the most efficient way possible so I’m not rushing to reach service time.

Worst career advice you ever received

Nothing really comes to mind; I’m pretty optimistic so naturally I’m big on the idea of “There is no bad advice”. I think that everything you do in your career will benefit you in one way or another. It might not seem like it at times, but you’ll know what is or what isn’t serving you.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

We all say to have fun while cooking because that is our job, but the truth of the matter is that our industry is a tough one; you won’t see friends or family as often as you’d like to but that just makes it all the better for when you do reconnect. On the other hand, you will likely make lasting and strong connections with your team, so don’t be “that person” who’s on a high horse. You’ll probably be reacquainted with the same door you came in if you are.

Come in a touch earlier than normal if you can to prepare and plan out your day. Write things down. Ask questions, even the questions you think you have the answers for or even if they’re a “stupid question” - which don’t exist by the way. 

Don’t aim to become “the next best,” just be the best that you can be, take your time to learn and let things gravitate to you. Most importantly, take care of yourself. If a situation doesn’t serve you, don’t put up with it. Be vocal with yourself. 

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.   

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