The Reveal - FLOCK Rotisserie + Greens - Harbord
Chicken and salad can be oh-so-ordinary. In the hands of chef Cory Vitiello, they’re transformative. Photo by Stephanie Dickison | Toronto Restaurants.
The Gist: Chef Cory Vitiello is largely responsible for the current chicken renaissance happening in the city (Props to Chef Daniel Boulud and establishments with fried chicken on the menu). Completely transforming the rote poultry we all grew up with (dry, flavourless, boring), he’s not only revitalized it, he’s made it alluring. Find the second outpost of FLOCK rotisserie + greens in the charming space that was home to his previous stellar (and much missed) venture, THR & Co., and doors away from his other magical rendezvous, The Harbord Room, that like everything he does, captivated from start to finish. (Tell me you don’t still think about those walls, that burger, those cocktails, that room…)
The roster is straightforward and uncomplicated – chicken, soups, and sides - all affordable and made fresh daily in keeping with the Adelaide location. The difference here? Addition of seating, booze, fried chicken, and desserts. In other words, everything you need.
Grub: Of course the main attraction here are the bird. Vitiello chose the made-in-France Rotisol rotisserie grill for the task. "It gives the most even cooking. You can have 40-50 chickens cooked to exact doneness in 55 minutes to an hour. The skin is crispy, but not the least bit charred. And a bit of blackness to the skin is good,” he says. "It’s the spice that’s burning, not the skin."
The naturally-raised, no hormones, no antibiotics fowl are from Farm Fresh Poultry Co-op Inc. of Harriston, Ontario, come in approximately 2.3 -2.6 lbs. each - the ideal size for spit-roasting. Any bigger and they dry out, Vitiello says. The combination makes for some of the most succulent chicken in the city. See for yourself.
Libations: A compact yet smart selection of wine, beer and creative cocktails (Blood Orange Negroni, Cucumber Margarita, Lavender Gimlet, Spiced Pineapple Punch, Sweet Tea Mint Julep) pair exceptionally well with the fare and are priced reasonably – wines by the glass go for $7-$11, with cocktails at $9-11 - meaning dinner doesn’t have to break the bank. An ideal partner for that bird on a warm day? Crisp, clean Ace Hill Pilsner ($8), the current go-to brew in the 6ix.
Fixtures & Fittings: Vitiello did a lot of the overhaul himself. Bradley Denton (who did the initial THR & Co. design and contributed to the iconic interior of The Harbord Room) made it more playful, "less destination-dinner spot, more friendly and whimsical," says Vitiello. With new lighting, seating - bar stools and dining chairs found at a local antiques market - the space is comfortable, yet still stylish. Retro signage delivers a soft glow, while walls swathed in wallpaper comprised of the FLOCK logo add a playful tone. A take-out counter ensures pick-up orders can be easily accessed without disturbing guests at the bar. (Other restaurateurs would be wise to do the same.) Cocktails while you’re waiting for your meal to go? Pro move.
Off the Menu:
Spiced Squash & Lentil Soup ($6) Don’t let the vegan label fool you. Packed with a variety of legumes, chopped carrots and celery, pumpkin seeds, parsley, silky finish courtesy of coconut milk, and a slow harissa heat, it’s one of heartiest, most enticing bowls in the 6ix. One you’ll definitely want on repeat.
Boho Flock Salad (half $8/full $11.50) The energetic BOHO features softened kale salad, finely diced, juicy sweet peppers, vibrant cherry tomatoes (not a stitch of white anywhere), crunchy pop of pumpkin seeds, carrots, and pomegranate, roasted and raw beets, and chew of red quinoa and dried currants, finished with a bright with beet, basil and orange vinaigrette. Bringing this many components and textures together in such a deft way results in an exhilarating meal that you would never expect from a mere salad.
Barbary Flock Salad (half $8/full $11.50) Another jam-packed salad - crisp romaine, cucumber, garbanzo, pickled onion, lentils, sweet peppers, dried apricot, pickled turnip, feta, olives, olives, pistachio, with tahini, sundried tomato and oregano dressing - that is perfectly balanced. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself uttering, "I could have this every day for the rest of my life,” and craving salad like never have before.
Note: FLOCK salads average 14 ingredients each. That's roughly twice as many as you're used to. And you should see how big the half portion is. The full is truly enough for two.
Halved Chicken ($9.50) with Rotisserie Roasted Brussel Sprouts and Beets with Crispy Onions ($4.50) Tender and juicy with an addictive skin that will have you trying to decipher the rub for days? No wonder it’s the basis for the brand. And for those who avoid brussels sprouts and beets? This changes everything, with the crispy onions putting it over the top. You’ll see.
5-Piece Fried Chicken Platter ($17) 5 pieces of buttermilk fried chicken with cheddar biscuit, slaw, honey & hot sauce Once you've tried the rotisserie chicken, it’s hard to imagine wanting anything else, but this fried chicken is the best in the city. Tender, moist, creamy white and dark meat tucked under a crisp layer of spiced coating, free of grease, coupled with biscuit, slaw and hot sauce in hand? Heaven.
Did you know? You can sit down to dinner and be out in just 45 minutes? Vitiello says, "Everyone’s got somewhere to be. They don’t have three hours for dinner anymore. We’ll get you a whole roasted chicken and sides on the table in five minutes and out the door in forty-five."
Head Honchos: Cory Vitiello, Chris Shiki, Benjamin Raine
Visiting Hours: 11am to 11pm
Map It: 97 Harbord St. (near Spadina)
Phone It In: (647) 748-7199
Deets: The fetching space can accommodate 54 guests, with the patio adding another 70 seats to the mix
Have it all ways: Dine in, take out (in fully biodegradable pulp containers) and delivery available.
How Cool is This? Psst. Two more locations are launching soon: 67 Richmond St. W. (mid-March) and 75 Church St. (mid-May). Watch this space.
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