At The Pass with Wesley Altuna

Toronto Restaurants At The Pass Wesley Altuna Bawang Stephanie Dickison copy.png

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

🕒 6 min read

Currently

Cook, Sous Chef, Dishwasher, Delivery Guy, Marketing Manager, Project Manager, Head of Operations and Owner of Bawang

Formerly

Sr. Project Manager and Operations

Favourite dish to make right now

Hmmm... I love making stews. I love how they taste better the next day and even better the day after. I’ve also been doing a lot of experimenting, so that’s always fun, especially when one of them lands the way you envisioned. When that happens, they often make it to our menu.

Last cookbook purchase

I’ve never purchased a cookbook. A lot of the recipes I have, I inherited from my grandparents and my brother who are all amazing cooks. In the process, I would expand on those recipes by adding/adjusting ingredients, creating my own flavours without pulling away from the traditional flavours and integrity of the dish. This includes techniques, tips and secrets.

Have you read it/tried any recipes 

All these recipes are in my head lol. From time to time, I would call my grandma or my brother (since my grandfather passed away) if I need guidance. So in a way, they are my “cookbooks” lol.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Pickles. I just don’t like them, sorry.  

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

This may sound a little biased, but I would love to see more Filipino dishes presented in various interpretations from traditional, fusion, modern, and contemporary. It’s already happening... we need more of it.

Biggest influences

My grandparents: cooking. My brother: grit. My son: kind- hearted. My partner: logical. My two silent mentors: Joel and Arnold.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world 

Toyo Eatery in Makati, Philippines. They're doing something special out there... will definitely be stopping by there post-Covid.

Last thing you ate

Leftovers from our last service: Garlic Fried Rice, Pancit Bihon Canton, and Lechon Kawali... and oh, our dessert of the week, Bibingka Royal.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Tomato, onions, and garlic. I call this the “magic circle.” These three ingredients can be translated to an infinite amount of dishes. Hence the term “magic circle” - circle being endless, infinite.

Bawang’s Ukoy. Crispy fried fritters with unshelled shrimp, calabaza, sweet potato, onions, and green papaya.

Bawang’s Ukoy. Crispy fried fritters with unshelled shrimp, calabaza, sweet potato, onions, and green papaya.

Guilty pleasure

I have a sweet tooth - desserts, chocolates, ice cream, pancakes. I’ve been treating myself to Chatime twice a week, at least lol. I also love savoury pastries - sausage rolls, meat pies, empanadas. Anything buttery, crumbly, light, flaky I will crush in my mouth!

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants 

In no particular order: Banjara, Playa Cabana, Pai Northern Thai Kitchen or Sukhothai.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars 

Peoples Eatery (RIP), Cold Tea, and Mahjong Bar.

Go-to drink

Double Single Malt Scotch, no ice. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Overthinking.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Grit.

Hidden talent

Social Intelligence. I’m pretty good at establishing relationships and navigating social environments. I’m not sure if this is a talent but I’m definitely very comfortable and natural in a social setting.  

The other is cooking, which is no longer “hidden” lol.

Best career advice you ever received

“If you know how to cook, you will never starve” - my older brother, Edmar.  

Worst career advice you ever received

“Why would you want to leave? You have good benefits, make good money…”  People that project their fears onto you. 

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business 

This shit ain’t easy. You have to really love it, otherwise it won’t taste good - to you and the customer.

Be a sponge. Ask lots of questions. Pay attention. Cooking is one thing, learning the business side is another - know both.

Don’t half step. If you’re going to do it, do it to the fullest and see it right through. Where you stop is how far you’ll get. Only you can decide if your cup is full.

Trust your gut.

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.     

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