At The Pass with Mann Bijlani
The acclaimed long-running At The Pass series showcases Toronto and the GTA’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrities featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Meet Mann Bijlani.
🕘 6.5. min read
Currently
Chef, Florette
Formerly
Toronto: Vela, Bar Buca (Eglinton). Italy: Antica Corte Pallavicina. Bangkok: GAA. Mumbai: Danda Food Project, among others.
Favourite dish to make right now
The Chocolate Tart on the current menu at Florette. It’s an aerated, almost flan-like dark chocolate filling, spelt flour in the crust base, caramelized white chocolate mousse and a semi-sweet chocolate crumb.
Last cookbook purchase
You and I Eat the Same: On the Countless Ways Food and Cooking Connect Us to One Another (Mad Dispatches, Volume 1) edited by Chris Yang
Have you read it/tried any recipes
It’s not exactly a cookbook but more a collection of essays touching upon how the cuisine of today has come to be, and the fact that every cuisine is individual in itself but we share more in common with each other than we tend to realize. It’s a must-read.
Beets in the Ground. Beets, goat cheese crema, brown butter vinaigrette, umami soil. Currently on the menu at Florette.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Burrata. It had its day but now it’s on menus everywhere. It’s delicious but I think that I’ve seen or tried every version of it possible. There’s a world of fresh cheese out there and it’s time we start highlighting more of that.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
Paw Paw. I missed the short harvest window by the time we opened Florette, but I’m eager to play with it next year.
Biggest influences
My mother, Jyoti. I used to idolize chefs and mentors, those with the highest rankings or most accolades. But truth be told, I am who I am today and where I am today thanks to the woman that raised me and I’m eternally grateful to her.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
Alchemist or Asador Etxebarri.
Last thing you ate
A slice of Badiali’s pizza. Their vodka slice is the best slice in this city, in my humble opinion.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Butter, Miso, Mortadella/Prosciutto Cotto.
Guilty pleasure
A McGriddle. I’m not a huge McDonald’s supporter, but there’s just something about them.
BC Manila Clams,. Nduja butter, lemon vinaigrette, fried curry leaves. “An homage to my background from India, travelling Italy and living in Canada.” Find it on the Florette menu.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Beast Pizza, Lake Inez, Dotty’s.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
I’m more geared towards dining out than hitting up bars but if I had to pick: Sakai Bar, Project Gigglewater, The Shameful Tiki Room.
Your go-to drink
N/A.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Letting go. I’m not a control freak but I like things done in a certain way. I’m learning to change that. Learning to accept that there’s multiple ways to achieve the same outcome.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
If I were to guess, I’d say my willingness to fail but also not caring about people’s opinions whether I fail or succeed. I always try creating a dish from a blank slate. And reaching the final version is sometimes easy, but sometimes involves a series of failures that eventually yield a brilliant product. And sometimes, the dish doesn’t work out at all. But understanding that’s part of the process has helped me grow so much as an individual and I hope that can inspire others to fail as well.
Rainbow Trout, piperade, crispy mustard greens. A dish Mann whipped up during the pandemic.
Hidden talent
I love selling and flipping things. It’s not really to make money but I just find it fun: sneakers, garage sales, used Japanese knives, you name it.
Best career advice you ever received
Not to be cheesy here, but I grew up watching No Reservations on TV. The series ends with Anthony Bourdain’s now famous quote: “If I'm an advocate for anything, it's to move. As far as you can, as much as you can. Across the ocean, or simply across the river. The extent to which you can walk in someone else's shoes or at least eat their food, it's a plus for everybody. Open your mind, get up off the couch, move.”
Worst career advice you ever received
It’s weird but I’ve never really been given ‘horrible’ advice. There’s always someone’s opinion I won’t agree with or perspective I don’t understand, but I’ve been able to filter most advice handed out to me to make my own decisions.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
Expose yourself to as much of the unknown as possible. If an opportunity presents itself, take it. Your time is your currency. If a job doesn’t seem like the right fit for you, it’s because it isn’t. Find the things that truly make you love cooking and hold on to them. There will be tough days and knowing why you started in the first place will keep you moving forward.
Discover more chefs in the At The Pass series.
Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. (And yes, you can nominate yourself.)
For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the TR Newsletter.
Enjoy this? Like, follow and comment on Instagram and Facebook. Forward and share using the icons below. #supportlocal
