IL FORNELLO – Keep Calm & Vegan On

IL FORNELLO has been on the scene for a staggering 32 years.

Let that sink in a minute. Think about how people were eating in 1987. It’s barely recognizable to today’s culinary landscape.

Since then, partners Ian Sorbie, Stacey Patterson, and Sean Fleming have seen it all. And as it turns out, been at the forefront of many trends: the restaurant group, now with six locations, was the first to introduce Toronto to Neapolitan-style pizza in 1986 and gluten-free pizza crust and pasta in 1988. 

So it’s no surprise that IL FORNELLO’s vegan menu and dishes are such a smashing success. And though Insta power players including avocados and kale appear on the menu, this plant-based fare goes way beyond the basics. 

Take a look: 

Can’t stop, won’t stop

Despite being named the “hottest trend of 2018,” the global rise of plant-based foods shows no signs of slowing down anytime soon (Jay-Z and Beyoncé advocating the diet hasn’t hurt).

At the Danforth location alone, roughly two out of five kids are eating from the vegan menu, according to Patterson’s estimation. The family-friendly restaurant is now serving plant-based fare to three generations in a single sitting, with others visiting up to three times a week to get in on the vegan fare. 

New menu, who dis?

The vegan menu launched quietly last year, but has been so successful, it’s now a large focus of the restaurant: while plant-based dishes have been incorporated onto the regular menu, vegan fare now has a dedicated menu and website – ItalianforVegan.com

This free-from-animal-products frenzy extends to brunch too. Vegan items on the regular brunch menu were such a hit, an exclusive plant-based one was launched to meet customer demand, starring Eggs Venny ($16), Tofu Scramble ($15) and Cinnamon Belgian Waffle ($16). Craving a more traditional breakfast? Don’t worry - you can still grab eggs and peameal bacon on the “regular” menu.

Plant power

When it came to creating the vegan menu, items weren’t merely swapped out for their plant-based counterparts. Patterson enlisted Margie Cook, Registered Holistic Nutritionist (RHN) and Certified Vegan Lifestyle Coach and Educator (VLCE) and a vegan chef in the biz for years, to create an entire menu of approachable, everyday plant-based dishes including: salads, daily soups, pastas, mains and desserts.

One of the best features - besides the food - is the complete transparency. You’ll find a comprehensive glossary of ingredients on the back of the menu, removing any guesswork to what you’re actually ingesting. 

Kitchen staff takes the ingredients seriously too: Carrots and mushrooms are smoked in-house. Choose from three housemade cheeses: cashew truffle, cashew cheddar and the almost never heard of tofu feta. They also make their own vegan “Parmesan” and butter.  Utensils are handled with care too - separate tongs, spatulas, pans, and deep-fryers are used for all vegan items.

Flex appeal

You don’t have to be a strict vegan to enjoy plant-based foods.

Patterson, who consumes vegan items “most” of the time, calls it the “perfect bridge restaurant” - order vegan items alongside non-planted-based dishes, without having to sacrifice sticking to one kind of food. 

And many items just happen to be vegan, such as the number one selling salad, Avocado Caesar, for instance. Did you know that their pizza dough is naturally vegan? Made with only “00” flour, salt, and yeast, there’s no dairy added. Their tomato sauce is also one hundred per cent vegan. Another little known fact: IL FORNELLO includes vegan wines amongst their regular selections. 

Meat your match

Healthy doesn’t have to mean boring. Meat-lovers may be surprised at how “meaty” select dishes are: 

·      “Sausage” made with organic beans is far from the dry, crumbly soy versions you’ve had in the past.

·      Rigatoni Bolognese ($19) features a rich, thick lentil and mushroom sauce boasting a similar texture, heft, and umami profile to the conventional version.

·      The flavour of the Smoked Carrot Wood-Fired Pizza ($17) is shockingly salmon-like. Even its appearance is similar. A dupe that’s delicious and sustainable? Don’t be surprised if this veggie dish is now your go-to order.

Wallet friendly

Unlike many trendy vegan restaurants in town, it won’t cost you a fortune to dine here: items are $6-$19. There are deals to be had too: Pizzas are just 12 bucks (premium pies not included) for lunch on weekdays and Monday to Thursday evenings.

 The future is plant-based

Never content with the status quo, Patterson is at the ready with new dishes set to roll out soon, including vegan lasagna made with spinach and other vegetable noodles, as well as spelt pasta. And just added to the menu: A delicious, nutty, chewy, yet light whole wheat vegan crust featuring “00” caputo, millet, sesame, flax, oat bran and whole wheat flours.

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You may think of IL FORNELLO as an established brand known for its pizza and pasta. Indeed, it is. But as it turns out, it’s so much more now. One bite of the smoked carrot pizza, and you’ll see.

For more info, visit ItalianforVegan.com.

At The Pass With Chef Andy Wilson

Currently 

Cat Dad, Chef at Pinkerton’s Snack Bar, Poor Romeo, and The Vatican Gift Shop.

Formerly

No Frills Produce Expert (LOL), Czehoski, Hooked, Hey!, Globe Bistro. Plenty of others, but those are the spots that left remarkable impressions or allowed me to flourish.

Favourite dish to make right now

Thai Curry Prawns at Pinkerton’s. When that lime leaf and galangal hits your nose while you plate. A perfect pie at The Vatican Gift Shop. A historic and un-fuckwith-able practice one must respect and execute with care. I could smash patties at Poor Romeo all night and be a happy burger-man. At home, it’s all lentil dhal and veggie curries, Vega One smoothies, and black coffee.

Last cookbook bought

Pizza Camp: Recipes from Pizzeria Beddia by Joe Beddia. I like that he was a brewer or otherwise “non-chef” who just committed to this single craft and was eventually listed “Best Pizza in America” (Bon Appetit). I’ve always had a hard time following the rules.

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I didn’t adapt the recipes within. It’s more a spiritual guide. For that, I went to Nancy Silverton’s Pizzeria Mozza for her dark rye sourdough, which has then been tweaked to meet our needs at The Vatican Gift Shop.   

Name one dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

The frozen, dry, generic bao buns that are from whatever company starting with ‘S,’ and are featured just about everywhere. Ours at Pinkerton’s can sometimes look a little “tres rustique,” but they are fresh and soft and made with love rather than convenience.  Our whole prep day revolves around the dough’s schedule.  

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

If someone can source or produce sustainable Prahok in Toronto, call ya boy.  I went to Cambodia recently and discovered this ingredient. Traditional in Khmer cuisine, it’s a salted and fermented fish paste sometimes incorporated into a dip but most often used to enhance curries and soups. It absolutely stinks, but lends this beautiful funky sweet/sour component to the otherwise familiar curry flavours of galangal, turmeric, lime leaf, ginger, etc.  As far as I know, that sweet stink is unique to Cambodia and not at all like your average shrimp paste. 

Biggest influences

I’ve always felt like a bit of an outsider in the industry. I used to say “I’m a musician first,” or something like that. I think my punk attitude used to work against me in the more formal kitchens, and now I think it’s my secret ingredient. We were often taught to focus only on this craft or these outdated mantras.  When I was younger, there were some chefs that truly disliked that I had more than one singular passion. Joe Strummer taught me that the future is unwritten. I guess as far as this industry concerns me, I was always going to take what I wanted from the experience and not compromise who I am.  If I needed to learn a fundamental skill, I was going to attack it with the same dedication regardless of how I fit into the culture.  

If could eat at any restaurant in the world

I think I owe it to my younger, more stargazing self to do the full French Laundry. as it was the first book I went through page by page. Other than that, I really just want to travel the world and eat the real stuff the way the real people eat. 

The last thing you ate

 If I’m not working and just eating leftover fries... last good meal was from Leela Indian Food Bar in the Junction. Intensely flavourful Indian, with the best naan in the city.  

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Broccoli.  Always eat your broccoli.  I don’t keep meat in our house as I’m the only omnivore of the two of us. Very boring, I know. We always have some varying stage of kombucha in our fridge as my partner is a brewer by trade and former Booch artist. Always lots of veggies, some sort of paste like ssamjang or miso.  

Guilty pleasure

Binging on giant size chocolate bars or full bags of chips when no one is watching, and sometimes when they are.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants, in no particular order

Kinka Izakaya (aka Guu) is always hilarious and I’ve lived nearby for years. You go there for a concentrated blast of intense noise and food. Batifole for adorable and warm service and beautiful French. Nazareth Restaurant for the veggie for two: you feel privileged to be fed and served by these legendary ladies.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars 

Thirsty and Miserable, Pharmacy, and The Greater Good Bar.

Go-to drink  

Disco Soleil by Dieu Du Ciel! IPA on Kumquats. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Constantly fidgeting with mise en place and refolding towels.  I hate specks of parsley or breadcrumb or whatever on my countertops.  

One kitchen habit that will inspire young chefs

I talk. About everything. I think these young chefs nowadays appreciate the transparency. With me they know they will receive the most honest and bullshit free response. I prefer to float amongst my staff as their peer and friend. Because of that, I have a very strong and loving culture here. I think that commitment to fair treatment comes from my own desire to make up for some of the indignities we cooks used to endure 10,15 years ago. I do think the industry has changed to reflect that somewhat, but I can only speak for my own efforts.

Name one hidden talent

 A ‘phonographic’ memory.  I can recall most any melody.  I’m pretty proficient with guitar, bass and drums.

The best career advice you ever received

The first “chef” (lower case ‘C’) I worked for was a great big, gin-blossomed alcoholic who used to blow his nose into his apron at the end of each service.  You couldn’t have had a more archetypal, movie-cliche chef if you tried.  He once told me in a faux-concerned but mostly condescending and belittling way, “You know, this isn’t for you. You don’t belong in this industry.” Something to that effect.  I often wonder what happened to that guy....

The worst career advice you ever received

Literally being told to change who you are to succeed. I mean, if you’re a psycho with a million bad habits, or cannot learn new or better ones, absolutely.  But being advised to sever ties with a normal or happy life is sociopathic and unhealthy. 

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Not everyone is innately talented.  While there are certainly some maniacs out there, most chefs just want to see results on their plate. And most are willing to help train you to affect those results.  If you aren’t willing to step outside of your own personal walls, show weakness or uncertainty, or often literally allow someone else into your own headspace, you won’t have a lot of support or legs in this industry. The worst thing you can do is either be incapable or difficult to teach, or to presume you are better than you are.

All You Need to Know About Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown 2019

One of the best ways to warmup this winter? A bowl of piping hot chowder made with sustainable seafood.

Chefs from across the province will be battling for top spot at this year’s Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown with their original creations. Sip on local craft beer, ciders and spirits while sampling various soups. Cast your vote for your favourite dish.

All proceeds directly support the Ocean Wise Sustainable Seafood Program, which helps to ensure that “ocean life will be abundant for generations to come.”

Top chefs, sustainable chowders, craft beer - what’s not to love?

Check out this year’s fab lineup:

Bistro '67
Chef Raul Sojo
Bistro ’67 Green Curry-Coconut Rock Crab Chowder 

The Chase Fish & Oyster
Chef Felicia de Rose
The Chase Fish & Oyster Clam Chowder

The Chef's Table at Fanshawe College
Chef Kyle Fee
Candied Salmon and Butternut Squash Chowder

Distillery Events
Chef Joshua Dwyer
Ontario Winter Vegetable Clam & Scallop Chowder

Fairmont Royal York
Chef JW Foster
Smoked Fogo Island Cod, Pickled Mussels, Sunchoke and Almond Chowder

The Local Cafe and Restaurant
Chef Matthew Ness
Seafood Chowder

Luma
Chef Dawoon Chae
Shrimp and Scallop Chowder Dumpling with Dashi, garnished with smoked tuna, pickled carrot, edamame, and preserved quail egg

Matty's Seafood Co
Chef Matt Dean Pettit
Thai Curry and Corn Snow Crab Chowder

Mercatto
Chef Doug Neigel
Roasted Crab & Lingcod Chowder, served with Old Bay potato chips

Pier 87 Fish Market & Grill
Chef Jason Maw and Patrick McMurray
Over the Top Chowder with clams, mussels, shrimp, octopus, crab and sturgeon

Pure Spirits Oyster House & Grill
Chef Aaron Linley
Savoury Clam and Corn Chowder with smoked black cod, oyster mushrooms, poblano puree, and stone fruit salsa

Wooden Boat Food Company
Chef Thompson Tran
Ocean Wise Dungeness Crab & Vietnamese Fried Tomalley Chowder

360 the Restaurant at the CN Tower
Chef John Morris
Canadian Seafood Chowder 

Drinks
Craft Beer
Beau's All Natural Brewing Co.
Mill Street Brewery
Muskoka Brewery
Shawn & Ed Brewing Company
Side Launch Brewing Company

Cider
Brickworks Ciderhouse
The Duxbury Cider Co. Ltd.

Spirit/Cocktail
Georgian Bay Spirit Co.
Top Shelf Distillers
Walter Craft Caesar

Wine
The Foreign Affair Winery
Southbrook Vineyards

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Details

Date
Wednesday, February 27, 2019

Time
7pm – Late

Location
The Fermenting Cellar - 28 Distillery Lane

Tickets
$60 + HST ($67.80) includes chowder, complimentary beer, wine and spirits sampling. Buy tickets now.

Note: This is a 19+ event. All ticket sales are final.